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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.